Lead belaying grigri. 5mm Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and...
Lead belaying grigri. 5mm Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. This video breaks down the accident and includes comments from the victim. But it is the belayer, not the belay device, that plays the primary role in dynamic belaying. Direct Connection to Belay Loop Sep 21, 2023 · Though the Vergo’s lead belaying capabilities are top-notch, you might get some funny looks if you bring one to the crag or gym — skepticism is high amongst the GriGri faithful. You made an excellent choice! The Petzl GriGri is a single rope assisted braking belay device with very smooth lowering and handles ropes from 8. The GriGri is hands-down the most popular active assisted braking device available. Belaying multi-pitch routes on single rope with a GRIGRI. This switch changes how grabby the cam is, allowing slack to be fed easier when lead belaying. This technique offers real advantages in terms of safety: - the rule to never let go of the May 1, 2008 · 5/01/08 - Petzl announces a new technique for belaying a leader when using its Grigri self-braking belay device. The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. GRIGRI ® + Belay device with cam-assisted blocking and anti-panic handle, optimized for learning and top rope climbing Abundant features for a better belay. May 5, 2025 · It is relatively easy to learn the proper belay technique, and the device can be used easily for lead belaying, top-rope belaying, and belaying the follower directly off the anchor. Are you a Climbing instructor / coach or someone who likes teaching: What Belaying mistakes do You See? Incl: beginners, experienced, top-rope, lead Excl: Anything I've already covered on my Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Walk into your lead-belay class confident in your understanding of the basics, starting with this coverage of the following: Rope Prep for Lead Belaying How To Lead Belay Additional Safety Considerations Rope Prep for Lead Belaying Before you start lead belaying, do these three things to set yourself up for success. Petzl’s most recent rendition of the Grigri has an anti-panic feature to add security when belaying in top rope mode. Belaying with the GRIGRI The belay technique to be used is very similar to the generic belay technique, but has a few specifics. ) So, I started asking questions. If you use the method of pressing down on the cam (like a common grigri method) it works well, but is not quite as smooth as tunnel belaying. Mar 5, 2025 · A coach nearly killed a professional climber last year due to improper Petzl GriGri use. Mar 17, 2022 · The Petzl GriGri still requires the brake hand to remain on the brake strand. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 1. 11+ confidently in a gym setting. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Jun 12, 2024 · up! PS 80kg, belaying with grigri Richard Hans Gruber and Tomas Wallner Dvorak 2 reactions · 12 comments Yula Dalberg Blocs and Walls Buddy Makker 3y · Public TOP ROPE climbing tonight, friday (morning), saturday (all day), monday (all day)? I climb 5a, b, c and would love to try out more difficult levels. This setup keeps a manageable amount of slack ready, reducing the need to manually feed more rope while climbing. Dec 15, 2021 · Various Techniques and Devices Belaying From Above With a Grigri A grigri can be used to belay from above, either connected directly to the anchor or through a redirected belay. Belaying, a. So it requires a little time to adapt to. Other companies have been trying to Jan 3, 2024 · The GriGri and the ATC climbing device have the same aim: to keep the climber safe. Assisted-Braking Belay Devices Time-tested Workhorse: Petzl Grigri $99. 9mm to 10. Can Tunnel-Up belay method Fail? Testing the Limits The Physics of GriGri | When does No-Hands Belay Fail? Complete Guide to Lead Belaying From basics to nerdy tips & tricks. Experience enhanced security with the ATC-Pilot Belay Device. However, their mechanisms and features vary from one another, while some climbers prefer the GriGri and others the ATC. (Black Diamond’s ATC—or “Air Traffic Controller”—is their model of the classic tube-style belay device. A mobile anchor should be positioned slightly behind the belayer, on the same side as the brake hand. Do not use this method for lead belaying. So for single-pitch climbers on a budget, this is a great option. 5mm to 11 mm (optimised for 8. The technical details and instructions illustrate a “quick slack” grip method. Oct 4, 2024 · Petzl’s “new” GriGri technique (look up “belaying with a GriGri” on their website) is a big step forward as the hand that is holding the cam open is also holding the rope. However, when you decide you want to advance from top-rope rock climbing to lead climbing, things get a little more complicated. Belay slaves rejoiced, but incorrect use of this newfangled device began to result in accidents. Happy viewing. ATC Grigris and tubular devices (colloquially called ATCs) both have an important role in rock climbing. 5mm). Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. If you have a little more money to spend on a top-notch lead belaying device, we'd upgrade to one of the Petzl options. Some people will say you should lead belay with an ATC, while others say it’s best to learn to lead belay with a GriGri. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. May 18, 2017 · New climbers sometimes struggle with belaying a leader with a GriGri 2 or older model because the cam would engage while trying to quickly pay out slack for either clipping or a fast moving leader. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. The anti-panic handle is excellent for those newer to belaying and weight differences when lowering. Belaying the leader dynamically With the GRIGRI, the movement of the belayer enables dynamic belaying. Follow these step by step instructions on how to belay with a GriGri, including giving slack quickly. Nov 6, 2022 · Can you lead belay with an ATC? Yes, you can lead belay with an ATC. 17 oz. VIDEO - Specific left-handed technique Most left-handed people hold the brake side of the rope with the right hand, belaying like a right-handed person with the GRIGRI; this technique is the most ergonomic. And while they’re both great for lead and top rope belaying, they aren’t exactly interchangeable. Every time you use a rope different from your usual rope, be careful and take the time to become accustomed to belaying or lowering with this rope. Switching to the grigri wasn't a big change and didn't feel unnatural, I'll belay right handed for lead and occasionally belay left handed for TR. When set to “lead belay mode” the cam spring is “stiffer” which allows you to feed rope out quickly and with less effort than previous models. For the belayer, using a GRIGRI is also more convenient if the leader needs to work certain sections. Direct belay – this is the recommended method by climbing schools today Redirected belay – this is the method used for many years and is still common today Indirect belay These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is done. [5] When used correctly, the Grigri's camming mechanism can assist in holding a climber that is working a route, or hanging on the rope while trying to figure out a climb. With assisted braking for improved belaying comfort both in the gym and at the crag, the light and compact the Petzl GRIGRI belay device can be used with 8. Team grigri here. 5-11mm dynamic single rope diameters. The appropriate amount of Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Distributing the slack across three loops also minimizes interference when climbing with crampons. For example, in a particularly large or violent lead fall where the lead belayer may lose Apr 8, 2019 · We can safely say the GriGri is the best belay device for indoor rock climbing. Petzl Video: Belaying with a GRIGRI See our video Belaying with a GRIGRI: We present the belay technique recommended by Petzl (for the climb and the lowering). The argument that GriGri's "promote sloppy techniques" is just silly. Aug 6, 2024 · Lead Despite advances in auto belay devices, using a traditional belay device with a human belaying partner is still seen as the safest and best alternative. But before learning about each method, let’s Dec 5, 2024 · The Trango Vergo is a solid tool that excels in lead belaying, and it costs less than other brake-assisted devices. Mar 23, 2024 · Grigri is also phenomenal devices for lead belaying. Oct 7, 2023 · A common practice is to belay a follower from above by connecting a grigri to the anchor and pulling down on the brake strand to take up slack. Sep 21, 2023 · Though the Vergo’s lead belaying capabilities are top-notch, you might get some funny looks if you bring one to the crag or gym — skepticism is high amongst the GriGri faithful. The Petzl Neox is the best for belaying a leader, and the Black Diamond ATC Guide is out favorite tube-style device with auto-locking capabilities. Jul 17, 2020 · Although the ATC is a fine option for lead belaying, the GriGri provides added security which is especially beneficial outdoors. ATC: Which Device is Best for You? Top Rope Climbing and Belaying Lead Climbing and Belaying Multi-Pitch Climbing and Belaying Rappelling Beginner vs. The Petzl GriGri is an assisted-braking belay device. Petzl GriGri Advantages: Very smooth feed. Safer than … GRIGRI ® Compact and versatile belay device with cam-assisted blocking for lead and top rope climbing Does it need an introduction? Designed for lead and top rope climbing, GRIGRI is the gold standard for belay devices. But in many other ways it seemed safer than the standard ATC I learned to climb with. Dec 22, 2022 · The Petzl GriGri Belay Device Key Specs of the Grigri Variations of the Grigri Pros and Cons of the Grigri Grigri vs. Used for everything from extended sport belays to jumar back-ups, the Grigri dominates the assisted-braking belay device Moved Permanently The document has moved here. It is a safe way for the leader to bring up the second. Here’s a short rundown on the differences (and if you want a full pro and con list, jump ahead to our full belay device Dec 2, 2013 · Learn proper techniques for smooth and safe belaying The release of the Petzl Grigri in 1991 marked a major step in the evolution of belay devices: Here was a device that assisted significantly in catching a fall, and also allowed a belayer to hold and lower his partner with little effort. Feb 16, 2025 · I create a loop between the Grigri, another loop between the two maillons, and then a final loop from the backpack to the first maillon. With its assisted-braking system, providing more confidence and comfort to both belayer and climber, the device quickly revealed itself to be ideal for leading, for working crux moves, for lowering, and for top The smart is my favourite belay device. We’ll be talking about the proper grigri technique to use to keep you and your climbing partner safe. Direct Connection to Belay Loop GRIGRI ® Compact and versatile belay device with cam-assisted blocking for lead and top rope climbing Does it need an introduction? Designed for lead and top rope climbing, GRIGRI is the gold standard for belay devices. However, if you were to do this while belaying from As a background, while belaying a lead climber, indoor I usually prefer a grigri if the climber is working a route and expects to be hangdogging, or if they are trying to flash at their limit, but generally use an atc if they are aiming for an easy flash or a redpoint on a previous worked route (I've once short-roped a partner while he tried a Learn how to belay a lead climber with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association. This technique offers real advantages in terms of safety: - the rule to never let go of the Jul 6, 2023 · For example, the body mechanics involved in using a GriGri 2 are quite natural and comfortable for rappelling and counterweight belaying. Mar 17, 2014 · The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. If you want the best active assisted-braking device on the market, the Petzl GriGri is a perennial favorite, and the GriGri+ is best for beginners. It offers several features that many will see as improvements over the standard GriGri, including an anti-panic handle and two different modes for top-rope and lead belaying. I belay anything (not lead yet, but Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Mega Jul is what you're looking for. Petzl endorses both methods, though the preferred method is to keep the grigri attached to the belayer’s harness and redirect through the anchor point. Dave Fasulo (Author of the Falcon Self Rescue book) recommends using a grigri for this reason. The winner is a trusted classic: the Petzl GriGri 2. Aug 3, 2023 · Grigri: The Grigri excels in situations where dynamic climbing and frequent falls are common, such as sport climbing or gym climbing. 11-5. Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. What Other Belay Devices Should You Consider? Dec 5, 2024 · The Trango Vergo is a solid tool that excels in lead belaying, and it costs less than other brake-assisted devices. With assisted braking technology similar to a Grigri, this device ensures smooth and secure control during belaying and rappelling. Dec 13, 2023 · When I was learning how to use the GriGri, my main hang up was that it seemed easier to short-rope a lead climber. The belay technique is very close to the generic technique, but has a few specifics. In this article, we’ll discuss how to use a grigri for top rope belaying, lead belaying, and a few other uses. In these situations if the grigri cannot be repositioned it is better to use a redirected belay from the harness. Warnings Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. Hey everyone, I've been climbing for about 7 months, so if I don't say something correctly I'm sorry! Recently within the past two months I have gotten into top rope climbing and I can confidently climbing 5. The cam can engage when quickly paying out slack. Since the 90s, climbing belay devices have continually developed, particularly in the assisted braking device category. What Other Belay Devices Should You Consider? Aug 15, 2025 · The most important aspect of belaying with any device is paying close attention to your partner. The technique described here is the only one that Petzl recommends. The GriGri 2 has been a leading device on the market for years, and for good reason. How to Use a GriGri In practice, belaying with a GriGri is similar to belaying with a nonassisted braking or tube Jul 25, 2024 · An awesome lead belay device for paying out rope and not annoying your climbing partner on long pitches, a great addition to the GRIGRI family. A long tether gives the belayer room to move. Many climbers enjoy lead belaying with a device with such a simple design because of how smoothly they pay out slack as the lead climber ascends. Perfect for single-pitch climbs. And, for new belayers struggling with the Grigri’s strict auto-locking mechanics, the Neox is a much friendlier option. Aug 6, 2021 · Not sure which belay device to get? We tested the Petzl GriGri 2 and Black Diamond ATC side-by-side to help you know which is right for you. 5mm-11mm ropes Weight: 6. How to Use a GriGri In practice, belaying with a GriGri is similar to belaying with a nonassisted braking or tube How to belay the leader with a GRIGRI - Belaying techniques ADVANCED belay tips 🧗🏽♀️ to get sendy this fall!! 🍁 This Secret Grigri Hack that only Mountain Guides Know! May 5, 2025 · It is relatively easy to learn the proper belay technique, and the device can be used easily for lead belaying, top-rope belaying, and belaying the follower directly off the anchor. Jan 3, 2024 · The GriGri and the ATC climbing device have the same aim: to keep the climber safe. Dec 16, 2022 · The Petzl Grigri, invented in 1991, is single-handedly the most well-known assisted braking belay device. After the device has cammed and braked the rope, the Grigri does all the “hard work” of holding the rope. Make sure your rope is Apr 17, 2017 · Rope texture, sheath treatment on new ropes, humidity, wear and tear, and freezing all play a key role in how your GRIGRI functions when belaying or lowering. Many seasoned climbers are quite familiar with this. . For a climber who is already familiar with using classic Oct 4, 2020 · The most common and popular assisted braking device is Petzle’s grigri. For a climber who is already familiar with using classic devices, it takes a little time to adjust. Aug 13, 2024 · The initial feeling of belaying both on lead and top-rope climbing with the Edelrid Pinch was similar to a GRIGRI, outside of a few advantageous differences. The innovative Edelrid Jul 2 Belay Device offers high braking performance for single ropes while you're sport climbing, top roping and gym climbing. In the gym or at the crag, it makes belaying easier with cam-assisted blocking. Jul 29, 2024 · In fact, even if you’ve only ever known the “new way” of Grigri belaying, the Neox takes rope handling up a notch thanks to its rapid feeding and butter-smooth catches. While climbing 1. In that setting, the only benefit of an ATC is that it is cheaper. For that reason, traditional belay devices are still used in competitive lead climbing. Nov 24, 2015 · Lead belaying in climbing gyms should definitely be done with GriGris and not ATC type devices. While paying slack Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri+ is the best active assisted-braking belay device for newer climbers and feels very familiar to anybody who has used a GriGri before. How To Belay In Guide Mode Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique. k. When belaying, the same technique for "taking in" that is used with an ATC or similar device is used. Using a grigri as your belay device greatly simplifies a number of self-rescue scenarios. Jul 22, 2015 · The GRIGRI belay device: a concept that forever changed climbing In 1991, Petzl offered climbers an all-new belay device, the GRIGRI. a Slack Management Throughout the climb, the belayer’s goal should be to give the climber enough rope for efficient movement and clipping, and, when catching falls, reducing the climber’s risk of impacting the ground, wall features, or other people. May 1, 2024 · The GriGri Plus also has a switch to toggle between “top rope” and “lead climbing” modes. You will also find examples of belaying errors to avoid. If possible, practice belaying with friends belay devices to get a feel of what works best for you. Its assisted braking system provides an added layer of security, making it an excellent choice for belaying heavier climbers or when climbers have a significant weight difference. 3 Methods Of Belaying From Above There are 3 methods of belaying from the top. However, if you were to do this while belaying from Apr 27, 2021 · The six belay devices we tested Belay devices are one of the central tools of climbing, so we took our six favorites to the cliffs for a showdown. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Mega Jul is what you're looking for. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. Oct 7, 2024 · Lead belaying with the Edelrid Pinch feels much more similar to belaying with a Petzl GriGri. That means if you go into GriGri Lock you should be holding the anchor strand tightly enough to activate the cam. Despite being right handed, I learned how to belay with an ATC left handed, it just felt more natural. If you are not sure which one is best for you, here are some pros and cons of both belaying devices. Assisted braking belay devices like the Grigri are advantageous for lead belaying because arresting falls safely in a lead climbing scenario can be much more complex than top-roping and the extra security you get from the ABD helps mitigate risk. Dynamic belaying with the GRIGRI Some think that dynamic belaying with the GRIGRI is difficult. Nonetheless, there is an alternate technique, presented here. Outdoor Climbing Ice and Mixed Climbing Final Thoughts Jul 25, 2023 · Grigris are great for belaying lead climbers because the device blocks and helps you arrest the fall when the climber falls. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. Feb 21, 2020 · This backup prevents accidentally dropping a climber either while lowering or while lead belaying, and is a fantastic safety feature. Make sure to use care. Con: The device prefers to feed slack out via a tube style belay, as in tunneling. But, lowering with a GriGri in a direct belay configuration requires an awkward manipulation of the GriGri 2 handle. When climbing a difficult pitch, a single rope is more convenient and straightforward for the climber. Petzl recommends the device for lead belaying and top-rope belaying, according to EN 15151 standard. Dissemination of this new technique will be accomplished in three modes: a web video, a poster, and an updated technical notice soon to be delivered with each Grigri belay device. Petzl GriGri Advantages: Mar 17, 2014 · The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. Lead Climbing: ATC vs GriGri vs etc. PROS Awesomely smooth paying out of rope. On a multi-pitch route, this movement is limited by the risk of hitting the belay station. Advanced Climbers Gym vs. Can you belay from the top with an ATC belay device? No, you cannot belay from the top with an ATC. The appropriate amount of Mar 17, 2022 · The Petzl GriGri still requires the brake hand to remain on the brake strand. Mar 12, 2025 · Petzl NEOX Review The Petzl NEOX cracked the code for lead belaying; (photo/Seiji Ishii) Form Factor and Specifications The Petzl NEOX looks very much like the rest of the GriGri series. 95 Rope compatibility: 8. With an anti-panic handle that makes it particularly suited for learning, the GRIGRI + is a cam-assisted blocking device for top rope or lead climbing in the gym or outside. Grigri Vs. While paying slack A mobile anchor should be positioned slightly behind the belayer, on the same side as the brake hand. It brings an added level of safety while remaining versatile and usable. At the crag, there are many factors out of your control, like falling rocks and wildlife, that can cause you to let go of the brake rope. For example, in a particularly large or violent lead fall where the lead belayer may lose Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri+ is the best active assisted-braking belay device for newer climbers and feels very familiar to anybody who has used a GriGri before. 5mm Aug 5, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. Video: Belaying with a GRIGRI See our video Belaying with a GRIGRI: We present the belay technique recommended by Petzl (for the climb and the lowering). The device can be used with a wide range of rope diameters, from 8. Aug 5, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. yehcj fdqbuz koajnq ouqvp fynm snywvvpq mvzgx lqjao dbvd zjbb
